Day 41 - October 1, 2013

October 1, 2013

Bagan, Myanmar

 

4:45 AM sharp, Mr. Win picks us up. The flight is 1 hour 15 minutes by Bagan Airlines. Arrive Bagan around 7:30AM. For the people in the know, later in October, hot air ballon ride is an enlightening experience. The 7 days river cruise is the way to really see the Buddism Golden Kindom. Butterfield and Robinson has been organizing luxury cycling tours from Mandaley to Bagan for years. Even though we did not know, we are still fortunate to have a fast look.

People told us it has been raining everyday for past several days. Today is the first sunny day. How lucky we are! A new Toyota van is our car today. After 30 minutes ride, we arrive to this vast green field with thousands of pagodas, stupas, temples standing still scattered all over as far as eye can see. Quite and mystic. We are speechless and can only stare.

Bagan is the old Kindom of the first Myanmar Empire. It was believed that King Anawyahta commanded the buildings of pagodas and stupas for people to follow Buddism teaching. 55 Kings ruled Bagan from 1 to 13 century AD. Around 1300 AD, the Kindom was abandoned and moved south to escape from Mongol's invasion. The King assigned each pagoda to a keeper and allows them to live inside the structure and harvest around the nearby fields. This practice is alive till this day. The rice, peanuts, and vegetation fields are part of this cultural heritage region. We are looking at ancient history right in front of our eyes. In 2006, Myanmar government started moving people out of the historical structures for preservation and renovation purposes. People were given only 2 months notice to move to government build housing, however, they can continue to farm their fields as was passed on to them by generations.

 

We first visit the only golden pagoda in Bagan. These pagodas are mainly for people to worship and learning about Buddism not for tourists. We do not see many other tourists around. We are early enough today to listen to the chanting practice.

 

 

 

Some have either inner or outter stairs to climb up. These steps are big and almost vertical. Climbing down is much scarier. But it is really worthy of the effort.

 

We can sit and stare all day long. Unbelievable blessing is upon us for just being here and sitting here.

Run into a local boy who came for offering with his mother. He cannot speak since birth but has the brightest smile.

 

Most Pagodas are still active and have Buddah statues for people to give offerings and worship. Statutes are either renovated or being renovated carefully to keep their original forms.

After lunch by the Irrawaddy River, we are pretty exhausted. By chance, I asked if there is a place for foot massage around. Our guide said one of the two resorts in site has a spa. We stopped by and got an hour of badly needed rest. Now, recharged and ready to go.

Around larger Stupas, there are shops for tourists. These two older Padaung ladies wearing their traditional neck rings weaving and selling their works. They are from Kayan Lahwi tribe east of Myanmar. This tradition is now only as an option for young girls .

 

This old lady selling wooden turtles and gave us a bright smile.

A young mother and her baby girl.

We drove around more and took more photos from different spots. This 20 square miles site has 3122 documented ancient structures. The time passed by too fast. We need to head back to airport to take the last fligh back to Yangon.

 

 

Back in town around 8 PM. Looking at weather in Vietnam, the pilots decided to leave at 8 AM from hotel even though we have a short leg tomorrow. We ended the day by taking a last good look at the golden glittering Shwedagon Pagoda from our hotel room and reflecting about all the blessing we had for the past few days. One more wish, no false alarm tonight.

Tomorrow, we fly to Hochiminh City.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 39 to 40 a September 29, to 30, 2013

September 29, 2013

Colombo, Sri Lanka to Yangon, Myanmar (1,100 NM)

We have two decisions to make today. One is today's destination. There is a typhoon in our fly route for the next few days and also, now is the beginning of monsoon season. Daily afternoon thunder storm is normal and we would like to avoid both. Bangkok, Thailand and Penang, Malaysia are our backups if Yangon is not possible. We applied landing permits for both yesterday. As it turns out, in the morning, weather clears out and we get to keep original plan to Yangon.

Second decision to make is to skip Australia and New Zealand this time. We feel these two countries deserve more time then as planned. We will make another trip for those two. The decision is after Hochiminh City, we will fly to Taipei and then take the Nothern route back to U.S. through Japan and Russia. Of course, the challenge is Russian visa and permits. Have to step on it. This way, we will shorten our journey by almost 30 days. We miss our family and friends too much. Also, here, we want to thank our travel handler, Air Journey Company. Whatever our wish is, they always made it happen. Their experience and professionalism in private aviation travel made everything ( okay, almost everything ) possible, at the same time, never compromise safety and spirit of fun and adventure.

Today is one of the longest legs. With headwinds, it took us seven and half hours. We started early. Hotel pick up was 6AM. Gear up at 8. With one hour time difference, we arrived Yangon around 5:00 PM. A whole day of flying and mostly over water. Fortunate to have good weather almost the whole time. We are tired but excited too. Weather is milder then Africa and South Asia. People are really kind and friendly. Surprisingly, Yangon airport is world class. This just shows, once again, how ignorant we are. Going through custom was a whisk. Handler accompanied us all the way to hotel, a rare service. He will pick us up on the day of departure, even rarer. Glad we get to come to Myanmar. A new place to see.

Yangon river.






After dropped luggages at room, we walked out of hotel to look for rice noodle soup. Handler told us there is a good noodle restaurant 10 minutes walk from hotel. We found YKKO. Got some satisfying warm fish ball noodle soup and taxi back to hotel for a good night rest. Arranged a day tour tomorrow.

 

September 30, 2013

 

In the morning, we tour the city. Walking around to see old colonial buildings. Street vendors are one after another everywhere. They support local people's everyday needs. From toilet papers to medicine.

Looks tempting but have to pass.

In the mid morning, we discussed with our tour guide, Mr. Win, about next day's plan. He highly recommened us to visit the old kingdom, Bagan (pronounced "bagun"). One day is tight, but he guarantees it will worth our time. We stop by a travel agent to book a 6 am flight to Bagan and return at 6 pm. Pick up time is 4:45 AM. now the problem is: How to get up?

A busy travel agency.

 

Like any regular day of monsoon season, afternoon comes pouring rain. We ran into the Botataung Pagoda. This is build around the same period with the Shwedagon Pagoda but much smaller in size. It is right in the center of the city. It houses two holy pieces of Buddha's hair relic. People come in continuously for offering and worshipping. Religion is an important part of people's life.

 

All the temples in Myarmar have strick rules about taking off shoes. It is important that visitors walk inside of temple barefooted. No socks either. Shoes have to be left at door. Carrying shoes is allowed either. In some tough areas, Jeffrey has to carry his "burden". ( Just a couple of times.) Our tour guide provided wet napkins afterwards, which is a big help.

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Myarmar was independent from British in 1948. Still has many colonial buildings mostly are used by government and seems in need for restoration. It is quite amazing that only until 2012, the government and the Western world made peace (so to speak). The country's change is exponential. Even local citizens are amazed by their own progress. Only until end of last year, they have normal car importing. Prior to that, only privileged can own a car. Streets were empty with little cars. 10 months later, morning and afternoon congestion is norm. Taxi are plenty. A little mind bugling to witness all this.

Cars are all pretty new here. In Yangon, no motorcycle allowed. Myarmarians are nice people. You do not hear them complaint about government and seems very happy about doing their jobs. Again, rare these days.

In the afternoon, we went to the jetty by Yangon river to see unloading of rice carrying ferry. Everyday, there are hundreds of rice carriers unloading bags of rice from upstream to trucks on roadside. Each bag is 50 Kg. They have a colored stick with each run. Different color goes to different truck. Every carrier is half running as they earn money by each stick they give out. They make 30 cents per run. I feel like we are seeing Shanghai rice dock 100 years ago. Our hearts are wrenching and tears in eyes. Jeffrey said to Mr. Win that this is very easy to achieve by simply building a conveyor belt. Mr. Win replied that workers are against the change because they will be out of work then. What a delima!

 

Workers have good spirit.

The stick control center.

Drove by home of Aung San Suu Kyi. Photo over the banner is her father, General Aung San. Legend is that when General Aung San past away, all his possession was 3 sets of uniforms. People seem to make peace with past and look forward to future.

 

By evening, we finally step on Shwedagon Pagoda. It is grand AND beautiful. Archeologists estimate it was first build in 6th to 10th century. Covered by tons of gold and clustered by gems and diamonds. 79,568 of those altogether. The crown diamond is 76 carats. It glitters and shines. Walking around this magnificent shrine after the earlier pouring rain, barefooted, somehow, there is a very purified feeling.

Top of Pagoda crown. All precious gems. After all, Burma is known for its ruby, sapphire, and jade mines.

 

 

After this action packed day, we returned to our room and want to get some good rest before tomorrow morning's 4:45 pick up. Sometimes, the more you think about these things, harder to fall asleep. In the middle of the night, there was a loud and clear broadcast : " There is an emergency, please leave your room and exit now". I looked at my watch, 2:30. What to do? Called operator, no answer. We grabbed, passports, flash light, room key, and camera (don't know why). We walked down 21 floors with other guests. It was weird to hear the fire exit doors open and close continuously. Got to lobby and was told "false alarm". We turned around right away and grabbed the first elevator. Now, forget about going back to sleep. We will be picked up in one hour. Traders Hotel later apologized and gave each guest free breakfast.

Tomorrow ( or today?) we will fly to old kingdom, Bagan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Day 36 to 39 - September 26 to 29, 2013

September 26, 2013

Gen, Maldives to Colombo, Sri Lanka (1,100 NM)

We had a change of plan for today's destination. Originally we were booked to Amanwalle at Mattala, Sri Lanka. Another beach destination. Frankly, we are "beached out". Wanted to see the real world instead. We decided to visit the capital of Sri Lanka, Colombo, instead.

Sri Lanka's civil war was ened just 4 years ago, in 2009. The thirty year civil war has great adverse impact to the development of the country. Ever since the end of the civil war, , the country has been booming. We can see along the congested streets, constructions are everywhere. We see Shangri-la, Taj, and Hyatt are under construction and will finish in next year or two. China has rooted its influence here too. They bulid freeways, airports, and concert halls in the past 4 years. We were told, at this time, there are 22,000 Chinese workers working on different projects in Colombo. In the city, we see new and old mixed, chaotic and grand side by side. If things are managed right, this country will change rapidly and be a nice destination in South Asia. Colombo reminds us very much of Taiwan 1970s. The two places are similar in latitude, size, and are both located next to a mainland by a straight. Sri Lanka, however, has plains more then mountains and is English speaking. It seems that it has the opportunities as Taiwan has in the sevenies if not more. Of course, a lot of works need to be done too.

People looks like Indian, dress like Indian but I was old they are 80%, Buddism, 10% Hinduism, 5% Islamic. But all are religious.

We are glad we come to the city and understand a little more about Sri Lanka.

Tuk Tuks are all imported from India.

Sri Lanka is famous for its giant crabs. We had one each. Singapore style. Things are still very reasonable here. $300,000 US dollars can buy a flat in a best down town high rise.

An Islamic mosque.

A Hindu temple.

A Buddist temple in lake.

 

Modern side of city.

Colombo city hall looks like White House.

 

September 28, 2013

Took a day trip by car to Galle, a south port city with a great Dutch build fort. See how local fisherman fish and sell their catches right away.

 

 

 

The fort. No entrance fee needed.

Huge rocks along coasts.

A traditional curry lunch. Mix everything on top of rice including chutney and chips. It tastes actually very good.

We will fly to Yangon, Myarmar tomorrow.

 

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